Use a thicker line - when it comes to making your puzzle cut design, just make the line thicker than.

Elephant foot - change up the flow on the first layer if that is the only layer giving you trouble and don't let it extrude as much, slicers usually have you extrude more here to help it stick.

Bed Level Correction - I have this in the Prusa machine and I used it to try to fix the corner that wasn't working as well.

First Layer Calibration - make sure it isn't too close, you may have to just change the settings up when you do puzzle prints.

4mm (2 layers) and work your way up in thickness as you are dialing it in in certain areas. If you are doing a lot of tests, you can start with just. 1mm is good as I feel the base of your puzzle should be at least that thick to get a sturdy but not too thick puzzle. I recommend that you print the test at at least 1mm thick, but you can go up to a few millimeters depending on how thick your prints will be.

15mm to work, but if not, you have backup options and the pieces will just fit a little looser together. I took the time to create a simple design that has puzzle line thicknesses ranging from. Infill - I usually leave this as the default 15%, but for something that is see-through such as glow in the dark colors, I recommend increasing to 100% infillīefore you go ahead and waste time and filament on these puzzles, let's do some tests prints.Purging Volumes - for multi colored prints, if you are using very light and very dark colors, I recommend increasing the purge amount for loading a light color to make sure it purges the extruder enough, I tried to save filament once and lowered these and the gold star ended up with green in it.on the opposite side of this, if you end up with a blank puzzle piece for the first layer anywhere (which happened to me once) I found reducing the elephant foot compensation to.2mm and this actually helps to ensure the first layer doesn't fuse together, so I recommend leaving this default or finding a way with your slier to reduce the amount of filament used on the first layer First Layer / Elephant Foot - Prusa has a setting for Elephant Foot Compensation.Perimeters - the more detailed your puzzle and smaller the pieces, the harder it will be to get them to show, I recommend reducing to 1 perimeter if things aren't looking right.Time to slice! Here are some things to keep in mind depending on your slicer. Now you have your puzzle shape that you can cut your puzzle design with. Shrink to the size you made note of earlier.

Import into Tinkercad as large as you can (again for best detail).Enlarge (optional) to make sure you get good curves when you import it (I've noticed in the past that when you bring rounded/curved objects into Tinkercad, the smaller they are the more likely the smooth curve is lost so I enlarge things and that preserves the curve) - also make note of the size BEFORE enlarging to make sure you can resize it correctly later.Double check to make sure it is no longer a line and is now a path.

Click on the PATH menu at the top of the screen.

Make sure you have selected your puzzle object.

I am using Inkscape (Illustrator or another program should work as well) so these directions are specific to that program, but this should give you an idea. So, we need to use another program to do a little editing. In its current state, if you bring it in, it will likely look something like the first photo above because the lines are too small for the program to handle, not only that, but the lines are going to be too thin to print. Now that you have your SVG, we need to make the lines a little bigger before bringing it into Tinkercad. Alright, here is the big, important part of this tutorial.

3d pixel puzzle bald